Text and Photgraphy -- Irwin Yeo
Fusion of Old and New Elements
Shopping belts are aplenty in Singapore. Orchard Road offers scores of designer garb, Suntec City presents loads of branded wear and, for the bargain-driven shopper, Mustafa Centre provides many economically-priced electronic products.
But none are like Ann Siang Road, fast gaining recognition as the "alternative" shopping street of Singapore.
Located in the heart of Singapore's ethnically rich Chinatown district, Ann Siang Road (and its sister street Ann Siang Hill) exudes a charm of its own.
Source: Streetdirectory.Com
Nowhere else in Singapore will the traditonal old and eclectic new fuse together so harmoniously. On one hand, we have the conservative dialect association clans, housed in their modest, 1940s-style shophouses. On the other, we have the funky-looking shops (they seem almost too cool for the word) selling trend-setting apparels, furniture and accessories. Both sit side by side on this road, echoing the favourite globalisation phrase, "where old meets new", once again.
Old clan associations and new shops selling trendy items flank one another on the streets of Ann Siang. (Note: see related articles on Style Nordic, pictured above right)
This unique facade is what makes Ann Siang Road endearing. Expatriate Peter Dodds, who works in an advertising firm at nearby Cross Street enthused: "In Singapore, we have too much skyscrapers, it's nice to see these quaint-looking shophouses around."
Besides shops and association clans, Ann Siang Road and Ann Siang Hill have many cafes and chill-out pubs (see photos below), which are very popular among the young working crowd.
History
The area where Ann Siang Road and Ann Siang Hill stand is a small hill that used to be owned by British Charles Scott before the 20th century. It was renamed Ann Siang Road and Ann Siang Hill when businessmen Chia Ann Siang bought over the area at the turn of the 20th century. Used predominantly for residential purposes, it was a quaint, quiet area where the rich reside.
Today, the shophouses -- which were mostly built between 1903 and 1941 -- are being refurbished into cultural heritage sites by the Singapore Tourism Board. Among the many historically-rich buildings include the first Anglo-Chinese School building and the Pondok Peranakan Gelam Club, which housed a Bawean-Malay community from 1932 to 2000.
The layout of the shophouses is interesting too, as the 2 roads converge in an unconventional Y-junction. Information boards detailing the history and significance of the roads provide tourists and locals with greater insight to the area.
(above)Information boards provide visitors with background knowledge about the area
(below)The recently-refurbished Ann Siang Hill Park provides the area with some greenery
After thoughts of the author:
Spending 2 hours in the vicinity of both roads felt strangely surreal. Above the horizon of the shophouses, skyscrapers loom, reminding me that I am indeed in the heart of Singapore's commercial district.
Yet, as I walk the streets of Ann Siang, there was something distinctly foreign, as if I could be roaming the roads of Malacca, Bali or even Paris.
This un-Singaporean sentiment is interesting but also faintly disturbing.
The ubiquitous information boards extol the rich, cultural heritage of Ann Siang and how it is reflective of SINGAPORE'S history. But as I read the well-penned paragraphs, I can't help but feel this disconnect -- that I cannot identify with this place which supposedly holds dear to Singapore. I hope to surmount it but remain unable to do so.
To me, Ann Siang seems like just another well-packaged tourist attraction, designed primarily to pander to the curiosity of tourists.
This pensive piece sounds critical of government policies but I do not point fingers at anyone. It is really my own apathy towards the heritage of my home country that is the root of the problem.
What's more important though, is that, after acknowledging this apathy, would I (and all young Singaporeans for that matter) want to go about changing it?
Related articles
Out and About Ann Siang Hill -- Information about its new-age shops, including Style Nordic, pictured above
Ann Siang Hill, Alternative Design and Fashion Haven in Singapore -- Move over Orchard, Ann Siang's the up and coming fashion spot in Singapore
By singaporeroads at 10:14 PM
Text and Photographs -- Irwin Yeo
In the increasingly concrete jungle that is Singapore, it is refreshing to know that rustic-looking Peranakan shophouses and old-school coffee shops still exist in the small area of Joo Chiat.
Location
Technically, Joo Chiat is not a road. It is a neighbourhood comprising of the main Joo Chiat Road and a few other intersecting ones like Joo Chiat Terrace and Onan Road. Located in the eastern part of Singapore, it flanks estates like Katong, Bedok and Marine Parade.
Source: StreetDirectory.com
History
The area got its name from Mr Chew Joo Chiat, a wealthy Chinese immigrant who bought the land and turned them into coconut plantations after World War 1. This piece of acquired land stretched all the way from present-day Joo Chiat Road to Telok Kurau Road and Changi Road.
During that time, many Chinese immigrants (or Straits Chinese as they are also known) were looking to move out of the Telok Ayer and Chinatown areas, which suffered from problems of overcrowding and poor hygiene. Mr Chew's land, which was efficiently subdivided into areas for shophouses and living accomodations, provided many of these immigrants with a place to resettle.
Today, 518 of these old, pre-war shophouses and "five-foot ways" have been gazetted for conservation and refurbishment.
The Joo Chiat Today
Present-day Joo Chiat has managed to retain much of its colonial charm, as rows of quaint shophouses, British-style terrace apartments and run-down coffee shops can still be found. The area has also earned a reputation of "food paradise", where many food stalls selling lip-smacking food are located.
Edwin Lim feels Joo Chiat is a good food galore
Student Edwin Lim, who has lived in Joo Chiat in all his 16 years, says the food is what he finds most attractive about his neighbourhood.
Said the Telok Kurau Secondary School student: "There are so many famous food stalls here, all within walking distance from my house; I feel so spoilt for choice sometimes."
Indeed, a check at the area saw no less than five food stalls that had been critically acclaimed by members of the public, foodies and gourmet television programmes like Yummy King.
Among these popular food stalls, Fei Fei Wanton Mee probably holds the top spot for popularity. The food business -- it has two stalls at different coffe shops, separated only by a road -- is known for attracting customers who live as far as Jurong and Sembawang, who are willing to travel just for a taste of its succulent char siew and wanton, and delicious noodles.
The food stall owners love doing business here.
Famous food stalls are aplenty in Joo Chiat. (Below) The popular Fei Fei Wanton Mee
Mdm Shazah with her tasty curry puffs
Said Mdm Shazah, who owns the Shazah Confectionery selling Malay pastries at Onan Road: "It's a very nice environment, the people are nice and there is a healthy flow of traffic."
Dissenters, however, feel that recent refurbishments to shophouses have robbed the enclave of its original identity and heritage.
"The rustic charm is gone if all the buildings look new and scrubbed," said Mr Derek Choo, 34, who has lived at Onan Road since 1990.
Shophouses given facelifts look aesthetically attractive, but leave people wondering: "Is this really Joo Chiat?"
The recent issue of Joo Chiat turning into a "red-light district" is also a concern of residents and Singaporeans alike. The proliferation of pubs, clubs and hotels in the area have injected much sleaze into an otherwise tranquil neighbourhood. This has caused the ire of residents and even made the headlines of local dailies. Member of Parliament (MP) of the Joo Chiat constituency Chan Soo Sen has also raised the issue in Parliament and also came up with policies and campaigns to "clean up" the area.
The mushrooming of pubs and clubs have brought about problems, but the authorities have since embarked on campaigns to combat them.
A Nice Throwback to the Early Days
Despite so, Joo Chiat still holds dear to many Singaporeans, especially those in their 40s and 50s. It's rich heritage and culture, dating back to colonial days, give it an aura that modern estates can never possess. Not to mention the added bonus of good food -- a guaranteed draw for the average Singaporean!
Related articles
My Joo Chiat -- The Joo Chiat Community speaks up!
Food Joo Chiat -- Recommendations of places to eat in Joo Chiat, inlcuding Fei Fei Wanton Mee
Joo Chiat Didn't Use To Be Like That... -- Blog post on a Joo Chiat Road Trip
By singaporeroads at 6:51 AM
Roads. Like bones to the body, and nerves to the nerve system, they form the backbone of infrastructure in every civilisation, developed or developing nonetheless.
They are of paramount importance, but yet remain decidedly low key in today's society.
This space aims to challenge and change the perception of roads as "zero-character" tools primarily existing only to facilitate transportation. Many roads have rich historical and cultural backgrounds and are often peppered with interesting sights and sounds. Also, their names often tell of fascinating stories and anecdotal recounts.
Some examples:
The Stilwell Road
An aerial image of the Stilwell Road
Source: Google Images
A long stretch of road leading from the city of Ledo, Assam at north-eastern India, through parts of northern Myanmar at the Pangsau Pass and finally leading into Kunming, China. Built by US General Joseph W. Stilwell (hence the name) to facilitate the transport of military equipment during World War II, the building of the road saw the loss of thousands of human lives. In more recent times, it has caught the attention of some travel writers and journalists, who wish to travel the road, most of which is off limits to unauthorised personnel.
Yungas Road
The winding Yungas Road is a recipe of disaster for many vehicles
Source: Google Images
This mountain road in the Bolivian capital of La Paz is unceremoniously termed "The World's Most Dangerous Road" by organisations like the Inter-American Devlopment Bank and the BBC. This is because of its astonishingly high road fatality rate. On average, one vehicle falls off its precarious edges -- plummeting into the deep ravines -- in two weeks.
In the Singapore context, our roads may not possess the historical grandeur and international prominence of the above-mentioned. However, they are not culturally void hollow vessels . They still present a unique mix of local history, traditions, sights and sounds, waiting to be discovered by the apathetic Singaporean and intrepid foreigner.
Hence, keep checking this space as we present the interesting roads of Singapore. What do the quaint-looking shops at Ann Siang Hills house? How did McNair Road get its name? Is Mount Pleasant Road truly spooked?
This reporter can't wait to get his road trip started. :)
By singaporeroads at 9:28 AM