Text and Photographs -- Irwin Yeo
In the increasingly concrete jungle that is Singapore, it is refreshing to know that rustic-looking Peranakan shophouses and old-school coffee shops still exist in the small area of Joo Chiat.
Location
Technically, Joo Chiat is not a road. It is a neighbourhood comprising of the main Joo Chiat Road and a few other intersecting ones like Joo Chiat Terrace and Onan Road. Located in the eastern part of Singapore, it flanks estates like Katong, Bedok and Marine Parade.
Source: StreetDirectory.com
History
The area got its name from Mr Chew Joo Chiat, a wealthy Chinese immigrant who bought the land and turned them into coconut plantations after World War 1. This piece of acquired land stretched all the way from present-day Joo Chiat Road to Telok Kurau Road and Changi Road.
During that time, many Chinese immigrants (or Straits Chinese as they are also known) were looking to move out of the Telok Ayer and Chinatown areas, which suffered from problems of overcrowding and poor hygiene. Mr Chew's land, which was efficiently subdivided into areas for shophouses and living accomodations, provided many of these immigrants with a place to resettle.
Today, 518 of these old, pre-war shophouses and "five-foot ways" have been gazetted for conservation and refurbishment.
The Joo Chiat Today
Present-day Joo Chiat has managed to retain much of its colonial charm, as rows of quaint shophouses, British-style terrace apartments and run-down coffee shops can still be found. The area has also earned a reputation of "food paradise", where many food stalls selling lip-smacking food are located.
Edwin Lim feels Joo Chiat is a good food galore
Student Edwin Lim, who has lived in Joo Chiat in all his 16 years, says the food is what he finds most attractive about his neighbourhood.
Said the Telok Kurau Secondary School student: "There are so many famous food stalls here, all within walking distance from my house; I feel so spoilt for choice sometimes."
Indeed, a check at the area saw no less than five food stalls that had been critically acclaimed by members of the public, foodies and gourmet television programmes like Yummy King.
Among these popular food stalls, Fei Fei Wanton Mee probably holds the top spot for popularity. The food business -- it has two stalls at different coffe shops, separated only by a road -- is known for attracting customers who live as far as Jurong and Sembawang, who are willing to travel just for a taste of its succulent char siew and wanton, and delicious noodles.
The food stall owners love doing business here.
Famous food stalls are aplenty in Joo Chiat. (Below) The popular Fei Fei Wanton Mee
Mdm Shazah with her tasty curry puffs
Said Mdm Shazah, who owns the Shazah Confectionery selling Malay pastries at Onan Road: "It's a very nice environment, the people are nice and there is a healthy flow of traffic."
Dissenters, however, feel that recent refurbishments to shophouses have robbed the enclave of its original identity and heritage.
"The rustic charm is gone if all the buildings look new and scrubbed," said Mr Derek Choo, 34, who has lived at Onan Road since 1990.
Shophouses given facelifts look aesthetically attractive, but leave people wondering: "Is this really Joo Chiat?"
The recent issue of Joo Chiat turning into a "red-light district" is also a concern of residents and Singaporeans alike. The proliferation of pubs, clubs and hotels in the area have injected much sleaze into an otherwise tranquil neighbourhood. This has caused the ire of residents and even made the headlines of local dailies. Member of Parliament (MP) of the Joo Chiat constituency Chan Soo Sen has also raised the issue in Parliament and also came up with policies and campaigns to "clean up" the area.
The mushrooming of pubs and clubs have brought about problems, but the authorities have since embarked on campaigns to combat them.
A Nice Throwback to the Early Days
Despite so, Joo Chiat still holds dear to many Singaporeans, especially those in their 40s and 50s. It's rich heritage and culture, dating back to colonial days, give it an aura that modern estates can never possess. Not to mention the added bonus of good food -- a guaranteed draw for the average Singaporean!
Related articles
My Joo Chiat -- The Joo Chiat Community speaks up!
Food Joo Chiat -- Recommendations of places to eat in Joo Chiat, inlcuding Fei Fei Wanton Mee
Joo Chiat Didn't Use To Be Like That... -- Blog post on a Joo Chiat Road Trip
By singaporeroads at 6:51 AM